Bolivia’s Invisible Amazon and its guardians who do not give up

Here, the tail of evil climbs up the tree branches and spies through the small windows of indigenous huts, attempting to invade their deep dreams granted only by the forest.

Here, in the Bolivian Amazon —unknown to the world— evil has different faces and teeth, and its revealing eye strives to discover the guardians of the jungle who do not surrender.

When it has them in sight, it goes after them, making their lives impossible and creating hell for them. It makes them feel threatened in their own homes and pursues them wherever they go. But the strength with which the custodians of the Amazon in Southamerica, the largest tropical forest in the world, where Bolivia holds a piece of land measuring 824,000 square kilometers, representing 70% of its national territory and 11% of the entire continental Amazon basin, does not wane in the face of the onslaughts that evil attempts to bring down the protective shield inherited by the indigenous people from their ancestors.

Evil, in this remote point of the planet, is represented by the insatiable appetite for deforestation that places Bolivia among the top three countries in the world with the highest loss of primary tropical forest. According to the report presented by Global Forest Watch of the World Resources Institute, in 2022 alone, Bolivia lost 386,000 hectares (3,860 km²), a 32% increase compared to 2021.

In Bolivia, in just one year—2022—the primary tropical forest was cleared at a rate comparable to 1,057 football fields per day.

Every day, without rest or quarantines.

And 2021 was not a better year: Mapbiomas platform for Bolivia, which provides the most up-to-date and reliable data, revealed that deforestation and conversion in the South American nation reached historical levels. Throughout the country, 380,249 hectares of forest and 259,002 hectares of non-forest ecosystems were lost. In other words, approximately 639,251 hectares of nature were lost, equivalent to one-sixth of the surface area of the southern department of Tarija. The deforestation and conversion that occurred in 2021 accounted for 33.4% of the total deforestation in the previous five years.

The dark side is also represented by the forest fires that arrive punctually every year to ravage millions of hectares of jungle; by the pollution of the Amazon rivers, where hundreds of illegal mining companies operate, whose mercury waste travels through the veins of the inhabitants of at least thirty indigenous communities who rely on poisoned fish for their sustenance; by drug trafficking, which hides its cocaine factories among the dense trees and also opens clandestine airstrips; by projects that threaten the construction of dams, and by the actions of authorities who, far from supporting the fight to protect the jungle, target the guardians. Equipped with an intimate connection to the land, air, and water, they resist bending to the dark forces that threaten their sacred abode.

The day has started well in Rurrenabaque. As usual. In this town in the Beni department, in northern Bolivia, the days usually go by without mishaps, despite the fact that the waters of the Beni River flowing alongside it are contaminated.

In its dark waters, the measured metal of mercury lurks.

The investigation commissioned by the Central de Pueblos Indígenas de La Paz (CPILAP) states that the residents of 30 indigenous communities living along the banks of the Beni River and other tributaries exceed the mercury limit in their bodies allowed by the World Health Organization.

***

In this vital point of the Amazon, he is not alone in dedicating his days and nights to the defense of the jungle.

***

«The defenders of the jungle have been taken away our right to have a family lunch, a birthday celebration. There is a photo with us and a photo without us because it is preferable not to appear publicly with our loved ones to protect them from violence and possible attacks. They can identify them and target them, which is where it hurts the most: when they harm your family, your friends, people who are close to you and shouldn’t have to bear all this,» she says.

In this titanic struggle, the figure of Marcos Uzquiano also stands out, a park ranger who was born 46 years ago in San Buenaventura, a town located in the tropical forest of La Paz department.

***

Marcos Uzquiano dreamed of becoming a jaguar (Panthera onca) from an early age. Accompanied by his grandmother, who revealed to him the secrets of a magical potion, he explored the countryside in search of leaves with the color of the «tiger.» With the desire to protect the great American feline and scare away hunters, Marcos longed to become one of them. However, despite his attempts at transformation, the formula never worked.

Over time, Marcos grew up and became a park ranger. In his position as interim director of Madidi National Park (before the government moved him elsewhere under pressure from mining companies), he fulfilled the dream of his childhood: dedicating himself to investigating and protecting the jaguars that are being hunted by traffickers, attracted by the high demand for their fangs in China.

Marcos has acquired a deep understanding of the language of the jungle throughout his more than 20 years working in the National Service of Protected Areas (SERNAP). During this time, he has had many encounters with jaguars, the felines he knew as tigers when he was a child.

Every day, Marcos ventures into the majesty of the forest guided by the love and respect he has always had for these magnificent animals. His commitment and bravery reflect the dream of a child come true, a legacy of protection and conservation that continues with every step he takes in the Amazon rainforest.

«I have never been attacked by jaguars,» he says, with a firm intention to break the myth that «tigers» attack people.

Those who have attacked him, often and repeatedly, have been human beings, whom he denounces for attacking nature or for their passivity in not taking actions they can perform from their positions of authority.

The mining sector has been one of the main actors exerting pressure on him, endangering his life and job security. The situation reached a critical point when illegal miners pressured the Bolivian government to have Marcos transferred from Madidi National Park. These powerful actors, backed by their political, economic, and social influence, have created a parallel state within the state itself. They have blocked roads, threatened authorities, and exerted strict control over protected areas as if they were territories under their dominion.

In the end, they not only succeeded in having Marcos removed from Madidi Park and sent him to the Beni Biological Station Biosphere Reserve but also one of the miners he confronted and fought against initiated a legal process against him for defamation and slander. If the legal dispute prospers in favor of the miner, Marcos Uzquiano could be disqualified from continuing as a park ranger and employee of the National Service of Protected Areas.

Illegal miners have found fertile ground in Madidi National Park and its surroundings within the Amazon itself. They have occupied protected areas, operating under the facade of mining cooperatives and with the complicity of foreign capital, including Chinese companies. Their power and influence have undermined the ability of park rangers, many of whom are indigenous, to exercise effective control, putting the integrity of these unique natural spaces in the world at risk.

The confrontation with Uzquiano has also taken place in the institutional sphere. The National Service of Protected Areas initiated an internal process against him, accusing him of a supposed offense committed in 2020. He is certain that these accusations appear to be a reprisal for his tireless work in defense of the Amazon.

Despite the obstacles and threats, Uzquiano has remained steadfast in his commitment to nature conservation. Although he considered resigning at one point, he decided to face the accusations and defend his innocence. His struggle has been recognized and supported by numerous jungle activists.

The power of illegal miners lies in their ability to influence political and economic power, exerting pressure on the government and destabilizing protected areas. Their strength lies in the support of communities and the lack of effective legal action by the state. This disproportionate power has weakened Madidi National Park and put the integrity of its defenders at risk.

But nothing stops Marcos Uzquiano. He has a proven ability to traverse long distances along forest trails, navigate small boats through the wild and calm rivers of the Amazon, and confront those he encounters on his path, from lawless miners to jaguar fang traffickers. He skillfully maneuvers an outboard motor as well as a paddle to avoid shipwreck in the choppy waters of lakes and lagoons. And in public settings, whether in an interview or a speech, he verbally confronts criminals and even the authorities who, while having the power to act, do nothing to combat the enemies of the jungle.

Sometimes, when you see him alone in the moonlight in the woods, you can perceive his feline gaze, crouched on a trunk of reality, alert to prevent evil from climbing the tree branches or nursing the wounds he accumulates in his crusade to make Bolivian Amazon visible along with its relentless problems.

The case of Uzquiano, is not that of an isolated fighter. Other defenders experience their own hell in the places they have made their battle headquarters.

***

In the indigenous community of Porvenir, within the Municipal Protected Area of Bajo Paraguá (983,006 hectares within the Santa Cruz department), there is Maida Peña, a fervent defender of the Bolivian Amazon. Her dedication has led her to face numerous challenges in her quest to preserve one of the most precious treasures of our planet: the Chiquitano Dry Forest.

The Chiquitano Dry Forest unfolds majestically as an ecoregion that encompasses a large part of Bolivia, especially the Santa Cruz department, and subtly extends into the north of Paraguay and west into Brazil. With over 24 million hectares, it is the treasure of a unique tropical dry forest in the world. Its cycles of six months of rain and six months of drought give it a uniqueness in its biodiversity but also make it an extremely delicate jewel.

Maida bears witness to how the health of lowland indigenous peoples has been threatened and unprotected. Her words, filled with concern, explain how the solitude in which indigenous communities find themselves has led them to face a series of challenges: water scarcity in the region has reached alarming levels, severely affecting the lives of communities that depend on rivers.

Maida knows that not far from Porvenir, in communities like Miraflores, water extracted from deep underground reservoirs is already being sold, just like bread and gasoline. Private water outlets are gradually being established to try to quench the thirst that the forests—which are the natural generators of rainfall—can no longer satisfy because many forests no longer exist. They were forcibly torn down by the metallic teeth of deforestation or the tongues of fire from forest fires that, year after year, show no mercy and increasingly anticipate their arrival, wielding their payloads of destruction.

Now, what exists in the green lungs of the Amazon are several gray patches, which echo the disappearance of vanished lagoons, as if it were an apocalyptic tragedy. Indigenous and peasant communities are deprived of their sources of food, forests with a vocation for forestry are turned into deserts, and temperature changes crowned by droughts drive wild animals to knock on human doors because they can no longer bear the thirst.

The situation is further aggravated by the sale of water by entities with the resources to privately drill wells, a vital resource that is now being commercialized in some areas of the Chiquitania. Drug trafficking has also found its way into the region, contaminating rivers and endangering the lives of local inhabitants. Maida not only fights for forest preservation but also for the survival of another indigenous people, the Guarasugwe, who face the threat of extinction and the loss of their ancestral knowledge.

Maida Peña has reported that drug traffickers have pressured her to resign from her position as Chief of Porvenir, where she firmly fought against them. Despite the difficulties, she says she feels an inner peace that she can only attribute to the divine protection she has received. Although she feels trapped in her own home and limited in her actions, she has stated that her determination remains intact.

Her latest battle is to convince the government to set up roadblocks on the 200 km dirt road that leads to the gates of Noel Kempff Mercado National Park in order to control motorized traffic associated with illegal activities.

***

Piso Firme is the gateway to Noel Kempff Mercado National Park. In a house on the banks of the Paraguá River, there is Hortensia Gómez, the Chiquitano Chief who covers her large ears with her hands to ward off the deafening noises when deforesters cut down trees without any human or state power to stop them. Although this corner of the Bolivian Amazon is a paradise for those who live here, for Hortensia, it is also a constant reminder of the threats and challenges she faces as an environmental defender because the illegal activities she cautiously speaks about keep her in constant suspense.

Hortensia wants this dreamlike place to last forever, with postcard-worthy landscapes on the banks of the Paraguá River that flows into the Itenez or Guaporé River, which Bolivia shares with Brazil. Piso Firme, with its 500 inhabitants, relies on fishing, agriculture, and livestock for sustenance. Additionally, tourism is on the rise within Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting visitors who want to explore the Ahlfeld and Arco Iris waterfalls, considered among the most beautiful in the world.

The Ahlfeld waterfall, named in honor of German geologist Federico Ahlfeld, cascades like a veil of clear and crystalline water that falls in multiple steps. With each descent, the musical roar and rising mist create a magical atmosphere. The wild energy of the waterfall fills the air, while the cool water caresses the faces of eternal wanderers who have witnessed this spectacle since ancient times.

Three hours’ walk from Ahlfeld, the Arco Iris waterfall appears, offering a display of vibrant and brilliant colors intertwining with the descending water. An arc of multiple hues unfurls before delighted eyes, bathing the surroundings in a palette of shades that whisper stories from bygone times.

However, amidst such beauty, Hortensia is aware of the threats that loom over this region. The encroachment of protected lands by settlers who have connections with the government is one of the main concerns, as the lack of respect for the Amazon endangers the flora, fauna, and peace of indigenous communities.

The construction project of a 254 km road from Santa Rosa de la Roca to Piso Firme is a source of sadness and concern for Hortensia. Although they understand the need for asphalt, she also fears the negative consequences it may bring, such as increased encroachments and damage to the local flora and fauna.

Hortensia finds solace and joy in the diversity of animals that inhabit the region. From the deer and jaguars that cross her path to the capybaras, otters, lizards, and turtles she observes during her river journeys.

«Every encounter with the local fauna is a reason for happiness and astonishment,» she says, while her round smile attempts to mock the threats endured by the forest.

***

Roycer Herbi, an Amazonian indigenous person of the Yuracaré ethnicity, is a 25-year-old young man with keen and accurate vision. His eagle-like gaze never fails, and he can spot, from a long distance, the biodiverse belly of the Sécure River as if he were one of the beings that inhabit its clear and crystalline waters, considered one of the most transparent in the world.

Born in the depths of the northern Indigenous Territory and Isiboro-Sécure National Park (TIPNIS) in Bolivia, Roycer moves with confidence and agility, like a feline, thanks to his long legs and bare feet that walk on the sandy and stony beaches of the Amazonian rivers. His voice carries absolute certainty, and he often asserts with conviction: Sustainable tourism focused on catch-and-release fishing of the golden dorado is a solution to fight against the enemies of the forests, who, in our parents’ time, snatched away the lushest trees we called Grandparents.

Roycer is the guide for fishermen. When he points with his index finger in the direction where he has detected the movement of a large golden dorado, one of the most valuable and admired fish species on the planet, the face of the accompanying fisherman lights up with a huge smile. This fisherman has traveled hundreds, perhaps thousands of kilometers to reach this remote place on the planet. In a few seconds, he will engage in a short but intense battle with the monarch of the fish, only to surrender to the beauty of its iridescent body and deep eyes. After catching his breath, he will let the dorado go like a good friend.

The fish will move forward without haste, its silhouette fading before the grateful eyes of the fisherman, but Roycer, who understands the language of the forest, will continue to observe it until it disappears into the tranquil depths of the Sécure River. At that moment, he will wish to be one of them, as there is nothing Roycer likes more than swimming full and free like a fish in these rivers, which are part of one of the best-preserved territories in the world.

The TIPNIS is a privileged place on the planet, described as «the most beautiful jungle in the world» by the French naturalist and explorer Alcides D’Orbigny, who explored Bolivia between 1830 and 1833. And, undoubtedly, D’Orbigny was not mistaken in using those words to describe this impressive Amazonian region. The TIPNIS covers a protected area of 1,236,296 hectares, almost twice the size of the city of São Paulo, Brazil. It has been a National Park since November 22, 1965, and an Indigenous Territory since September 24, 1990. This vast expanse harbors a great amount of life, making the TIPNIS one of the most biodiverse Protected Areas in the world, second only to Madidi National Park.

Geographically located between the departments of Beni (Moxos province and San Ignacio and Loreto municipalities) and Cochabamba (Chapare and Ayopaya province and Villa Tunari and Morochata municipalities), the TIPNIS is not only important in this epicenter of splendid nature but also drives the development of life throughout the planet.

The Yuracaré, Tsimane, Moxeño, and Trinitario indigenous peoples know that the titles of National Park and Indigenous Territory are fundamental but not sufficient to protect this vital territory for them. They are aware that their enemies never rest and that the forest is a constantly coveted jewel. They also know that this northern part of the TIPNIS is one of the few almost intact places on the South American continent. The lush vegetation contributes to the environmental balance of the planet, and any damage that occurs here will directly affect indigenous communities, depriving them of home, food, rivers, trees, rain, and future happy days.

This northern region of the TIPNIS is also the refuge for indigenous people who were expelled from the southern area of this indigenous territory, where coca producers have been gaining ground and taking away the ancestral territory of lowland communities.

Roycer Herbi remembers that his parents told him that many years ago, there was a fierce attack by loggers that left the forest without Mara trees, and recently, many families have arrived from the south, escaping from the coca growers who left them without a home or territory.

That is why Roycer has made the cell phone an extension of his senses. He does not use it to call or connect to social networks, but to take photos and document everything that happens within the TIPNIS, whether it is something beautiful or an environmental disaster that he would never want to witness but believes it is necessary to record for the world to know.

He knows that the cell phone is not part of the inheritance of his ancestors. He knows that his grandparents and parents made oral storytelling a wonderful way to immortalize the memory of the Yuracaré people. But he also knows that technological tools, like the cell phone, will not break any intimate connection with the land, air, water, or the wild animals he coexists with and is willing to defend with his own life.

***